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Wall Unit Built In Wall Units For Bedrooms Ideas Captivating Built In Wall Units Plans 71 With Additional Interior Decor Design With Built In Wall

Wall Unit Built In Wall Units For Bedrooms Ideas Captivating Built In Wall Units Plans 71 With Additional Interior Decor Design With Built In Wall Best Built In Wall Units Design

Published at Wednesday, March 14th, 2018 - 09:13:52 AM. Wall Unit. By polly.

3 Essential Points to Successfully Fit Wall Units on Different Types of Walls The wall units should line up with the same size unit below. Sometimes the design is such that some will not line through because different door widths have been used but where they do line up a plumb line needs to be drawn up the wall and used as a starting point to mark off the unit sizes. The height of the units have been determined by the height of any tall housing units or by the height of the tiles below. A spirit level now needs to be used to transfer a line around to wherever there are wall units. Now the position of the plates on the wall need to be worked out to allow the units to hang at the correct height. A good way to start is to take a unit and adjust the bracket to its half way position then measure from the top of the cabinet to the underside of the hook. Then transfer this measurement to the wall starting at the drawn line on the wall showing the tops of the wall units and measuring down. A tip here. When fixing into lightweight thermalite blocks a normal plastic plug does not hold very well so it is a good idea to use either 75m/m or 100m/m frame fixings. These have a full length plug and the expansion takes place a lot deeper into the block resulting in less chance of the fixing being pulled out. Only use the two outer holes and drill the holes down at around 30 degrees and splaying outwards. As most of the forces on the bracket are straight down the fixings, by sloping downward, will resist being pulled out. If the wall units are to be fitted onto a stud wall the chances of the hanging plate being in the same position as the wooden stud is very remote but there are a couple of ways to get over this. Firstly a continuous hanging plate can be used. This comes in 2 or 3 meter lengths with holes and slots along the whole length so all that is needed is to cut it to the correct length and put it at the same height as the individual ones and screw into every stud it passes over. If at the end there is no stud to secure it then fit a high load plasterboard fixing called a hollow wall anchor. This has expanding legs that open up behind the plasterboard to help spread the load. Secondly a section of plasterboard can be removed to allow 12m/m plywood to take the place of the plasterboard and the plates fixed to this. This method is messy and takes longer but is a solution if no continuous hanging plate is available. The plywood must be strongly secured to the studs. Thirdly, similar to the plywood solution, remove a larger amount of plasterboard and fit noggins (horizontal pieces of studding fitted between the vertical studs) at the correct height and re plasterboard. Tip. To make sure the hook rests firmly on the wall plate it is advisable to actually chisel away some of the side of the unit, being careful not to break out through the face to allow the wall plate to run past where it needs to be, so that when on the wall there will be a little left and right movement to line the cabinet up without the hook falling off the wall plate. I have never seen anyone else do this but I highly recommend you do. One very important thing to look out for when fixing the wall unit plates to the wall is to look below to see if there are any sockets below or nearby. If there are I suggest you find the cables in the wall to be sure you miss them. One way to do this is to carefully chisel the wall away, about 150mm below the bracket position so that is far enough away to not affect the strength of the fixing but close enough to accurately mark the wire position as it passes underneath the bracket position. The hanging bracket plate that fixes to the wall usually has 3 slotted holes. Usually the bracket position can be adjusted to be able to use two of the three slots. When drilling the holes angle the drill away from the wire for extra security. Sometimes, as there is only a limited space at the back of a wall unit, you can only trim away a maximum of 10mm so if the wall is running out of plumb by more than that, the wall unit will need to come off the wall to level it. It is sometimes possible to trim the maximum off the unit and then take away some plaster on the wall to make it right. If there is a problem getting the wall unit right the back may need to be moved further into the unit which will involve taken the unit apart if it is a flat pack unit or if it is a rigid unit then the back will need to be cut out and a new back cut to fit the inside size of the unit. Sometimes if the layout allows, it may be a better option to move the base units slightly to enable everything to line up. At times like this it is down to what the customer wants and the various options can be explained as well as any additional costs which may have a bearing on the final outcome.

How to Choose the Right Wall Unit Air Conditioner? The best time to purchase a new wall unit air conditioner is probably during the winter months. During the summer sales will be high, but as sales drop along with the temperature retailers may introduce great offers to boost their revenue. There are several key things to consider that will help you determine which is the best product for you. The Cooling Capacity Cooling capacity is measured in British Thermal Units and will be listed as BTUs in the product information. As a rough guide a unit with a 9,000 BTU rating can adequately cool a room that is 8 feet high and is 350 feet square in size. The Energy Efficiency Rating The efficiency of the unit is measured and given an Energy Efficiency Rating. This will probably be listed as EER in the product information. The more efficient a unit is then the less energy it will use, and the more money it will save you in running costs. As a rough guide a product which has an EER of 8 will use approximately 20% more energy than a product with a EER of 10. Easy To Fit? Before you make a purchase you need to know if the wall unit air conditioner will be easy to fit yourself, or if youll need to employ someone to fit it. The individual product information should tell you if it requires a professional to install it. Extra Bonuses Finally you can look at extra bonuses that the product might have such as; the ability to control the direction of the air flow, a remote control, low noise fan etc. Choosing the right wall unit air conditioner is so much easier when you focus on the important issues.



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