Published at Wednesday, March 14th, 2018 - 09:12:05 AM. Wall Unit. By tommy.
3 Essential Points to Successfully Fit Wall Units on Different Types of Walls The wall units should line up with the same size unit below. Sometimes the design is such that some will not line through because different door widths have been used but where they do line up a plumb line needs to be drawn up the wall and used as a starting point to mark off the unit sizes. The height of the units have been determined by the height of any tall housing units or by the height of the tiles below. A spirit level now needs to be used to transfer a line around to wherever there are wall units. Now the position of the plates on the wall need to be worked out to allow the units to hang at the correct height. A good way to start is to take a unit and adjust the bracket to its half way position then measure from the top of the cabinet to the underside of the hook. Then transfer this measurement to the wall starting at the drawn line on the wall showing the tops of the wall units and measuring down. A tip here. When fixing into lightweight thermalite blocks a normal plastic plug does not hold very well so it is a good idea to use either 75m/m or 100m/m frame fixings. These have a full length plug and the expansion takes place a lot deeper into the block resulting in less chance of the fixing being pulled out. Only use the two outer holes and drill the holes down at around 30 degrees and splaying outwards. As most of the forces on the bracket are straight down the fixings, by sloping downward, will resist being pulled out. If the wall units are to be fitted onto a stud wall the chances of the hanging plate being in the same position as the wooden stud is very remote but there are a couple of ways to get over this. Firstly a continuous hanging plate can be used. This comes in 2 or 3 meter lengths with holes and slots along the whole length so all that is needed is to cut it to the correct length and put it at the same height as the individual ones and screw into every stud it passes over. If at the end there is no stud to secure it then fit a high load plasterboard fixing called a hollow wall anchor. This has expanding legs that open up behind the plasterboard to help spread the load. Secondly a section of plasterboard can be removed to allow 12m/m plywood to take the place of the plasterboard and the plates fixed to this. This method is messy and takes longer but is a solution if no continuous hanging plate is available. The plywood must be strongly secured to the studs. Thirdly, similar to the plywood solution, remove a larger amount of plasterboard and fit noggins (horizontal pieces of studding fitted between the vertical studs) at the correct height and re plasterboard. Tip. To make sure the hook rests firmly on the wall plate it is advisable to actually chisel away some of the side of the unit, being careful not to break out through the face to allow the wall plate to run past where it needs to be, so that when on the wall there will be a little left and right movement to line the cabinet up without the hook falling off the wall plate. I have never seen anyone else do this but I highly recommend you do. One very important thing to look out for when fixing the wall unit plates to the wall is to look below to see if there are any sockets below or nearby. If there are I suggest you find the cables in the wall to be sure you miss them. One way to do this is to carefully chisel the wall away, about 150mm below the bracket position so that is far enough away to not affect the strength of the fixing but close enough to accurately mark the wire position as it passes underneath the bracket position. The hanging bracket plate that fixes to the wall usually has 3 slotted holes. Usually the bracket position can be adjusted to be able to use two of the three slots. When drilling the holes angle the drill away from the wire for extra security. Sometimes, as there is only a limited space at the back of a wall unit, you can only trim away a maximum of 10mm so if the wall is running out of plumb by more than that, the wall unit will need to come off the wall to level it. It is sometimes possible to trim the maximum off the unit and then take away some plaster on the wall to make it right. If there is a problem getting the wall unit right the back may need to be moved further into the unit which will involve taken the unit apart if it is a flat pack unit or if it is a rigid unit then the back will need to be cut out and a new back cut to fit the inside size of the unit. Sometimes if the layout allows, it may be a better option to move the base units slightly to enable everything to line up. At times like this it is down to what the customer wants and the various options can be explained as well as any additional costs which may have a bearing on the final outcome.
How To Buy a TV Unit Consider the height of your TV Unit; when you are sitting on your sofa, you want your eyes to line up with half to two thirds up the screen. For example, for 40"+ TVs, it is best to look for units that range in height from approximately 300 - 550mm. There are, however, exceptions to every rule; if you have a very specific space or need for your TV then there are many options for higher or very low units. > Practicality & Style You will need to decide how much storage you will need for your components and DVDs etc. Make sure you measure your components before going shopping. Also think about what kind of look you want; do you mind if your components are on show or do you want them to all be hidden behind doors or glass? If they are going to be hidden, its important to make sure that your remotes will work through the glass/ doors. Are you planning to have your TV sitting on top of a TV unit or are you going to have it mounted to the wall? These are good questions to ask yourself in order to be able to narrow down your search. This will also help you to decide on what style you are after for your space. > Space & proportion If you have a large sitting room with a large sofa, balance it out with a long, narrow TV Unit. If you have the space, a wall unit can be a great way to incorporate your TV and media equipment neatly while becoming a feature for your home. If you have a small space to fill, a simple unit with practical drawers and media storage will do the job nicely. Look for designs that are fuss-free with no handles as to allow it to blend with your room and other existing furniture. The key to displaying your TV is to either centre it on a slightly longer unit or display it off-centre and balance it out with tall accessories or a floating shelf. These two options ensure the TV will look proportionate, no matter what size you decide to go with. 42" TV 42" TVs look great centred on smaller units to balance out the proportions of the TV. With smaller TVs, you also have the option to place it off-centre on a longer unit and balance it out with floating shelves, an artwork or tall decorative items. - 1.0 - 1.8m wide units. - Compact, practical and simple style to accommodate components. - See: Small Basso, Sola, Prima 1.8, Small Padova, Astro. 46" TV 46" TVs are best suited to TV units that range from 1.8 - 2.2m. This allows enough space either side to look visually balanced in a space. Slightly larger TV units also offer more storage for media and accessories like DVDs and CDs. - - 1.8 - 2.2m wide units. - Sleek, proportionate and great storage for DVDs and extra components if required. - See: Prima 1.8, Mezzi, Quadrato, Moby, Basso 55"+ TV When you have a larger TV to accommodate and you have the space, you can choose between a long, low unit or a wall-unit. Its a great idea to balance such a large TV out with hanging cabinets or shelves. - 2.2 - 3.6m wide units - Compact, practical and simple style to accommodate components. - Wall Units that incorporate media, decorative display and practical storage. - See: Prima 2.4, Moby, Puma, Alta - Or Wall Units: Viano, Genova
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