Published at Thursday, March 15th, 2018 - 00:54:41 AM. Wall Unit. By tommy.
3 Essential Points to Successfully Fit Wall Units on Different Types of Walls The wall units should line up with the same size unit below. Sometimes the design is such that some will not line through because different door widths have been used but where they do line up a plumb line needs to be drawn up the wall and used as a starting point to mark off the unit sizes. The height of the units have been determined by the height of any tall housing units or by the height of the tiles below. A spirit level now needs to be used to transfer a line around to wherever there are wall units. Now the position of the plates on the wall need to be worked out to allow the units to hang at the correct height. A good way to start is to take a unit and adjust the bracket to its half way position then measure from the top of the cabinet to the underside of the hook. Then transfer this measurement to the wall starting at the drawn line on the wall showing the tops of the wall units and measuring down. A tip here. When fixing into lightweight thermalite blocks a normal plastic plug does not hold very well so it is a good idea to use either 75m/m or 100m/m frame fixings. These have a full length plug and the expansion takes place a lot deeper into the block resulting in less chance of the fixing being pulled out. Only use the two outer holes and drill the holes down at around 30 degrees and splaying outwards. As most of the forces on the bracket are straight down the fixings, by sloping downward, will resist being pulled out. If the wall units are to be fitted onto a stud wall the chances of the hanging plate being in the same position as the wooden stud is very remote but there are a couple of ways to get over this. Firstly a continuous hanging plate can be used. This comes in 2 or 3 meter lengths with holes and slots along the whole length so all that is needed is to cut it to the correct length and put it at the same height as the individual ones and screw into every stud it passes over. If at the end there is no stud to secure it then fit a high load plasterboard fixing called a hollow wall anchor. This has expanding legs that open up behind the plasterboard to help spread the load. Secondly a section of plasterboard can be removed to allow 12m/m plywood to take the place of the plasterboard and the plates fixed to this. This method is messy and takes longer but is a solution if no continuous hanging plate is available. The plywood must be strongly secured to the studs. Thirdly, similar to the plywood solution, remove a larger amount of plasterboard and fit noggins (horizontal pieces of studding fitted between the vertical studs) at the correct height and re plasterboard. Tip. To make sure the hook rests firmly on the wall plate it is advisable to actually chisel away some of the side of the unit, being careful not to break out through the face to allow the wall plate to run past where it needs to be, so that when on the wall there will be a little left and right movement to line the cabinet up without the hook falling off the wall plate. I have never seen anyone else do this but I highly recommend you do. One very important thing to look out for when fixing the wall unit plates to the wall is to look below to see if there are any sockets below or nearby. If there are I suggest you find the cables in the wall to be sure you miss them. One way to do this is to carefully chisel the wall away, about 150mm below the bracket position so that is far enough away to not affect the strength of the fixing but close enough to accurately mark the wire position as it passes underneath the bracket position. The hanging bracket plate that fixes to the wall usually has 3 slotted holes. Usually the bracket position can be adjusted to be able to use two of the three slots. When drilling the holes angle the drill away from the wire for extra security. Sometimes, as there is only a limited space at the back of a wall unit, you can only trim away a maximum of 10mm so if the wall is running out of plumb by more than that, the wall unit will need to come off the wall to level it. It is sometimes possible to trim the maximum off the unit and then take away some plaster on the wall to make it right. If there is a problem getting the wall unit right the back may need to be moved further into the unit which will involve taken the unit apart if it is a flat pack unit or if it is a rigid unit then the back will need to be cut out and a new back cut to fit the inside size of the unit. Sometimes if the layout allows, it may be a better option to move the base units slightly to enable everything to line up. At times like this it is down to what the customer wants and the various options can be explained as well as any additional costs which may have a bearing on the final outcome.
Consider Purchasing An Entertainment Wall Unit - You Are Not In College Any Longer If you know of a college student, then swing by their apartment and take a look at the furniture in the room. I am sure that you will find pieces that do not match, pieces that have one or more food stains and pieces that look like they were left on the curb for the last garbage pick-up. So answer this question - does your living room furniture look like you are still in college? If your TV and DVD player are still sitting on upside down milk crates, then it may be time to start shopping for a real entertainment wall unit. Your situation may not be as extreme as previously mentioned, but if you are out of college or just working full time, then you really have no excuses for beat up old furniture. Think about it, the way your home looks reflects the kind of person you are. Do you want people really thinking that your idea of a TV wall unit are milk crates and a board you nailed into the wall? Now, before you jump online or run to your nearest furniture shop you should take a few things into consideration. After all this is a pretty big purchase and not something that you will want to take lightly. An entertainment wall unit should not only be physically appealing, it needs to be structurally sound as well. The last thing that you want is to have that nice TV come crashing down because of shoddy workmanship. If you have a lot of heavy things you plan on placing in your new entertainment wall system, then you probably want to steer clear of any flimsy material like particle board being held up by a few nails or screws. If you have such things as a big screen TV or stereo receiver complete with a surround sound speaker system, then take a look at the material that the unit you are considering buying is made out of. Go through the product to see how it is constructed and how it is rated quality wise. Is it real wood or is it cheap particle board? What materials are being used to hold all of the pieces together? Nothing would ruin a nice night watching DVDs than to have your large TV bend and break the shelf that it is on. While the material used in making TV wall units is of great concern, you should also look at what you plan on placing in it and on it. Does the color of your TV and other electronic items match? Are they too large and heavy for your entertainment wall system? Is there a chance that it may bend and break? Ask yourself these questions before making the leap to buy an entertainment wall unit. Dont take any chances that you next big purchase will end up costing you even more should it collapse and cause your precious electronics to fall and break. Because my daughter Caryn and I have had so much success finding beautiful wall decor online, we wanted to start our own web site so we could recommend and share all the wonderful resources weve found to others.
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